Thursday 6 August 2020

Coast to coast romp.

Foreword and preparation 

This year, as we all know, has been a funny one. During the early months, I’d been super focused on The West Highland Way Race (WHWR) in June. Getting into shape to give it my best shot. Then Bam! COVID 19 changed all that. Races were cancelled left right and centre and with lockdown restrictions my motivation waned. Mileages dropped and workouts cancelled in favour of running to curb worry. Or maybe more the stress of dealing with worried customers at work. So when, on the 27th of April I received an email saying the WHWR was cancelled I was of course saddened but also slightly relieved; getting out on the trails was difficult and it seemed unreasonable to go out for many hours when instructed to stay indoors. So with this news digested, my mind began ticking.

Initially I’d planned to do a continuous push along the 215 mile Southern Upland Way (SUW) in 2021. With minimal kit, and only cat napping and probably with support runners. But of course I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to take part in the 2021 WHWR. Which meant waiting until 2022 for the SUW challenge, or, with no races on this year, just do it. Given I’d only have around 8 weeks to prepare it would need to be much more leisurely. A fast pack journey. 

Aims: To cover over marathon distance per day the route should take around 6 days. Which sounded doable but tough enough to be a challenge. 
Only use facilities on route eg use shops, but don’t accept people bringing me items, or stashing any items on route. Enjoy and take it easy.
I scrabbled to get ultra light gear together, spending a small fortune, “investments” I told myself as my bank balance took hit after hit. I tested my gear tentatively on Hadrian’s Wall path as my longest training run, it did not fill me with hope, my bag chaffed, I was sick from drinking dirty water, I got blisters because of the extra weight on my feet. So it was more spending, water filters, purification tablets and extra wide fitting shoes. I was ready, or not...
Sunday:- 27.84 miles, 6 hours 39 minutes, 2,746ft
I left home at 08:00 on the 27th of July with my lovely Mum, who drove me to the bus stop, to begin my journey to Portpatrick. I was dropped off at the start after being picked up at the train station by my friend Sarah, who kindly offered to drive me the 5 miles from Stranraer. 

 
The day was warm and dry as I left the busy coastal town at 13:09 and I felt fresh and energised. Although my mind kept insisting, it’s a long way, walk any hills. And I did. I didn’t have a target pace, rather just run and walk for around 9-10 hours per day (or until 7pm as on day one, due to the late start) and see where I ended up. Having a tent is great, means you can just stop anywhere and sleep. 
The first few miles covered beautiful coastal paths overlooking the Irish channel and onto Ireland. I received a good few “Well Done”’s from walkers, who I thanked but giggled to myself. If only they knew I’d just started! 
I turned away from the sea heading inland and back towards Stranraer. It seeemed silly to be running back to the place I’d disembarked the train. However, that’s the route and I couldn’t start 6 miles in. The way was easy going on quiet roads and I soon reached Castle Kennedy where a small shop was available. I bought some supplies and marched into the park to be met by a beautiful lake and gardens. 


Happily I munched some food, enjoying the view before popping out of the park and onto the road where I stayed for around a mile before heading onto the trail again and the first significant climb of the way and onto a more rural landscape. Around this time I had the option to visit New Luce to restock, but I naively declined because it was a whole mile off route! After a little toing and froing over directions I stumbled upon the bright yellow beacon indicating I was on the right track. 
By this point I made to decision to spend my first night in the beehive bothy. I was sure it was 28 miles and it meant I’d be indoors for the bad weatherforecast for that night. I soon reached the bothy in a delightful little wood. Cautiously I opened the door, praying it would be empty. It was. I set down my bag and went to collect water. I crouched down by the burn, dipped my flask in and Whoosh! The water stole it out of my hand I snatched for it, but it was too fast. It was no use, it was gone. I only had one soft flask that fitted my water filter and the other containers did not have lids. “Oh well, I’ll just need to use my collapsible cup and filter until I can source something else. But please hang onto any other receptacle when gathering water.” Lesson learned, I collected water and had my first adventure meal, beef hotpot. It was pleasant, although anything is pleasant after a long day of activities. I hung up my wet socks, dried and inspected my feet, the advice I’d received was a resounding “look after your feet!” And got my head down.I slept well, only being woken occasionally by the rummaging of the resident mice. 


Monday:- 35.97 miles, 10 hours 21 minutes, 4,114 ft
I woke up at 5am, to a very rainy sight. I had my coffee and breakfast and headed out for the day. From the off things didn’t go well. I’d had a little rubbing from my pack, on my left shoulder and hips and it was annoying me. Day two and I’m gonna get friction burns. Trying to hold my pack away from my back so I could jog down the hills. I had a decent pace regardless and the single track was pretty, although I had no views. I was averaging 12 min miles. I thought that was slow, how wrong I was. 
There was a fairly long road section to get through and I ran/walked it before climbing up through waterside forest, then onto another road section. As I entered the open moorland the clag was thick and route finding was difficult. The emerald bog was thigh deep in places and a fair bit of cursing had occurred. Looking back at my map this section was only about 2 miles. It felt like 200. As my progress had slowed I began to get cold. “Just get through today” I told myself “it’ll be better for the rest of the week.” 
I reached the Galloway forest and hoped for a little shelter from the rain. I was wrong, as well as the rain pouring from the sky, water ran from the tree leaves in torrents. The trail was beautiful though and it encouraged me to run. Which in turn warmed me up a little. If I run, I thought, I heat up. So there is no excuse to be cold. 
As I got to Glen Trool I had the option to head to the visitor centre half a mile away and go to their cafe. However the prospect of sitting in soaking clothing wasn’t pleasant so I pressed on. The pathway was flooded and I did worry that the way may become impassable, especially given there were signs warning the Water of Trool bursts it’s banks on occasion. Luckily, it was all fine. And I was managing a little run along the banks of Loch Trool. Despite, or because of the weather the scenery was dramatic, waterfalls spilled down the vibrant green slopes frothing with white foam. This lifted my mood significantly. 
The rain had decreased from torrential to spattering as I climbed towards Loch Dee. I’d hoped to seek refuge in the White Laggon bothy, but as I approached the building I saw a window open and close and signs of other occupants. I could not face small talk at this point so I about turned and rejoined a minor road, where I stayed for 4 miles. The path was then meant to head over a hill pass towards St John’s town of Dalry but a diversion was in place. This took me off map and I was convinced it was heading in the wrong direction, so I doubled back to recheck the sign post. I was correct but still unconvinced so I resorted to Google Maps to reassure me.
Time was getting on and at over 30 miles it was time to scope out a spot for the night. A few miles down the road I found a flat piece of ground, rather close to the road, and dumped my bag. Exhausted and freezing. I vowed I’d not continue if I didn’t enjoy the following day and researched options for returning home. I spoke with my mum, got into my sleeping bag, turned on my stove just to heat up and had dinner before getting my head down for the night.
Tuesday:- 36 miles, 11 hours 2 minutes,6,230ft
I awoke bright and early in a much more positive mood and also to miraculously dry kit! I packed up and was on my way by 06:50. That morning, as I shouldered my bag, I realised, if I didn’t buckle the waist strap, I had no chaffing: such a simple solution and an example of knowing your gear, which I’d not had enough time to do. 
Along the lanes my nostrils were filled with the intoxicating scent of Honeysuckle. Absolutely delicious! I passed a hydroelectric station and climbed a hill, at the bottom, was another hydroelectric station. My heart sank, was this the same one? Had I just gone 4 miles in a circle after the diversion? Surely not? Checking my map I found this was actually a different station and I was on track. Just a short stroll along the Water of Ken and into Dalry.

6 miles in and I made Dalry and picked up supplies from the little shop there. I also bought a couple of bottles so I now had water containers. Result. This became my routine, start on empty, and get fueling a couple of hours into the day. I crossed remote moors, which in the sun seemed much easier than the recce I’d done, in the snow. 

Climbing Ben Brack early on in the day was handy, knowing I’d hit the hightest point for the day. I decided to do a wee Facebook live from the 1,740 ft summit. Rough tracks over Mid Hill in a bit of drizzle and down a single track trail to the Chalk Memorial Bothy where I sneaked in for a snack. 


 I saw the first humans of the last two days here. We had a chat and parted ways. There was a high pass over into Sanquhar, via Glenmaddie Craig. It was not overly steep and was decorated with fancy posts designed by primary school children. The descent into the town was fun. 
Now I was to decide, come away from the town and camp up, or push on for another 8 miles to Wanlockhead. I love that village and of course I’d go on. I headed up the hill into the glorious evening. 
I positively skipped into Wanlockhead, pleased to be still moving well after just shy of 100 miles. I pitched up, dried my feet, had dinner, stretched and went to bed.

Wednesday:- 33.42 miles, 10 hours 7 mins,6,490ft
I awoke early after a dry but windy night. Feeling a little chilly I began my day with all my clothes on, down jacket, waterproof trousers and jacket.
I was cozy and enjoying watching all the rabbits, who use the old mines as their home. I knew shortly I’d be reaching the highest point of the route (Lowther Hill at 2,175ft) and also the half way point. Hiking up I amused myself taking photos of the golf ball weather station at the top.
At the top the fog had come down and I needed to be careful with navigating the tops. There was a fair few humps to overcome before heading downhill to the road. At this point it was time to strip down to shorts and tee shirt, as the sun warmed my skin. I washed and freshened up in the river revived to do a fair shuffle over the forestry tracks to half way. 
As I celebrated, just after this photo I tripped and bashed my knee. I sat for a moment consoling myself that I was indeed ok. Picked myself up and walked it off, blood trickling down my legs, hiking up Sweetshaw Brae and rubbing down. At the time my mind decided to begin a Big Brother style commentary on my movements “Day 4 on the Big Brother Trails. Lynne is still running.” Or “lynne is walking cos she’s a lazy bum.” Etc. This kept going right up until Beattock.

After Beattock I diverted to Moffat for some proper grub, a big sandwich scoffed and a red bull. I decided to stay at Over Phawhope bothy for the night given it was to be wet again that evening. But first I had the 1,800 ft climb to Croft head. It was no chore, the evening was warm and the views extensive.
I think it’s one of the prettiest parts of the trail and delight in crossing the arched bridge and the welcome downhill to the bothy. I got into my lodging and got a good wee fire going. Great! I can dry socks! I draped them over the flue and went to collect water. Upon my return, minutes later, I found my socks burned to a crisp. I tried to think what best to do, I didn’t particularly want to wear no socks, so I tried, with success to fashion some socks out of my arm sleeves. I would make do bit it did give me a sleepless night trying to consider other options. Which was a pity as my bed was super comfy. 

Thursday:- 33.0 miles, 9 hours 12 mins, 4,695 ft
The day was misty and gloomy, but warm as I pulled on my makeshift ‘socks’ and dry shoes. It was a relief to have dry feet after so many days. I started on a 6 mile road section, not a very interesting start. It does reconfirm what excites me to run though. I couldn’t make myself run because I found it boring. And yet the gnarly trails ignited my desire to run. It’s so important to understand our motivations and this is definitely one of mine. I was highly excited to head off road and up the muddy farm track, getting to pet a working sheep dog as I headed towards St Mary’s Loch. I looked out for all the different breeds of sheep today and mused over why humans have lost the ability to shake the way most animals do. Obviously we don’t have fur, but it would still be a useful response to dry ourselves. 
I reached St Mary’s Loch, which, under the grey skies looked moody. The path was nice along the shore, and I soon reached another mountain pass which would take me to Traquair. A few false summits and then it was over the top and down the hill, listening to some good tunes now. I went into Innerleithen to get some socks, and low and behold, there was a shop selling such items. 
I also chatted to a fellow Highland Flinger who recognised my buff, then travelled back to the official trial. I climbed through Glentress forest onto Minch Moor, at 1,500 ft, and into my resting place for the night (the Three Brethren). After 120 miles I was quite happy to do plenty walking and so the time passed slowly. I couldn’t find water so had to hoof it down to the closest stream where I got my water for the night and bedded down. 
I was awakened in the early hours by some people driving a quad bike around the tops and feared that they’d run over the tent either because they thought it was abandoned or because they didn’t see me. It was the only time on the trip I feared for my safety. It was all fine though. 
Friday:- 32.6 miles, 9 hours 19 mins, 3,940ft
I’d ran out of gas. Another lesson, don’t be wasteful. So no morning coffee but a quick stock check told me Galashiels had one canister in stock. I got it. But I’m getting ahead. I’d woken up to a lovely cloud inversion and was treated to a mist bow as the sun began to break through.  
It was not long before the sun came out and again shorts and tee shirts were the order of the day. I met a hiker doing the Scottish National Trail, she commented on my tiny pack, but I was doing a lot shorter distance than she. I warned her of the cows, that I’d startled and they’d chased me, shortly beforehand and bid her good day. 
I would eat tonight, as I picked up gas and more supplies in Galashiels then left the town to follow the river Tweed for a few miles, watching families relaxing on the banks. I briefly wondered why I couldn’t just relax? But then, I was so glad I was out doing what I love, I didn’t ponder it long. I was eager to leave civilisation again. Although I was certainly in less remote territory now, I only saw a few horse riders and a walker during the 7 miles to Lauder. 
I treated myself to an ice cream in Lauder and checked my map for a spot to stop for the night. The Watch Water  
reservoir looked ideal. Which mean heading over the Twin Law in the evening, enabling me to take in the stunning views from the summit, and do a quick photo shoot, just to prove I did do some running.

I was tempted to set up camp here but decided it would be worth heading down to a more sheltered site for the night. I found a nice, sandy spot although there was a lot of Goose ‘dirt’. It was flat and sheltered and I spent the evening in the company of a lone fisherman before he left me in peace for the night. 

Saturday:- 21 miles, 6 hours 8 mins, 2,352 ft

I felt a little sad packing up for the last time on Saturday morning. As I packed, I realised if I made the finish before 1 pm I’d have made the journey in under 6 x 24 hour periods. This had significance because, although my last day wouldn’t be ultra distance, it would mean during every 24 hours I had travelled over marathon distance. And I was happy with that. 

I was still moving well, despite my bashed knee aching a bit, so I felt happy as I jogged along the shoreline and down the road to Longformacus. I met a dog walker who was a little surprised to see someone so early, I politely excused myself as I was keen to get on my way. This day was predominantly on forestry roads and tarmac, with minimal climbing. Although this did not speed up my progress. I guess the previous 190 miles were in the legs. Not a problem though, I wasn’t in a huge rush. I was making progress steadily. 

I passed a wind farm, and a pretty church yard. Where I saw the first post for the finishing town: Cocksburnpath. 

I passed a fancy wind vane then it was onto country roads, crossing the busy A1 into Pease Dean and a seemingly endless climb, which in reality is probably neither steep nor endless. And then down into Red Rock. I could see the sea! I’d made it! Almost...

Holiday makers were enjoying the sun, and they seemed alien to me. I was on my journey, so, so different to theirs. It’s a strange disconnect. We exchanged niceties and I knew now with just miles to go I would make it before my deadline. It was just along the cliff tops, under the A1 again and into the town to the village square. I was done. I did a Facebook live, sat down and waited for my mum to come get me. I was home in time for tea. 

After thoughts 

Total distance: 220 miles 
Total time: 5 days, 23 hours and 50 mins (approx)
Moving time: 71 hours 49 mins (approx)

The goals I’d set myself I had certainly achieved. My kit choice was superb, I used every piece of equipment and needed for nothing. 

I do wonder if I’d pushed harder would I have completed faster. Probably yes. But that was not my goal. My goal was to enjoy. And I did. I learned a whole lot along the way: 
Gas canisters make great foam rollers.
Hang on to your flasks in streams.
Don’t dry your socks on chimney flues.
Sleeping on it makes things better.
I’d enjoy multi stage racing.
I can do more than I think, so when setting my own challenges I can afford to be a little tougher.

Recovery has gone well, aside from my damaged knee, which I’m giving time to heal and my love of runnning is renewed. Who knows when racing will be back, but adventuring is sometimes as good. I did this, not to prove a point, or as a look at me. I did it for myself and to share that anyone can do their own adventures. Step out there and find yourself. So until next time, look forward to hearing your adventures.